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When assembling a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, situated near the top among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant part of north London.

An Surprise Honour

This small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the family utterly astonished.

“I am completely surprised,” remarks the family member, pointing to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their modest shop achieving such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its former charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the fare, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent texture.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this culinary achievement.